While on Kauai, we had some time to visit a farmer's market (which they call sunshine markets). We picked up some salad veggies as well as fresh Hawaiian grapefruit and papaya.



We also stopped in to the local fish monger, where we got some Ahi tuna that we then seared lightly on the bbq.

Wednesday morning we took a sea tour of the waters off South-West Kauai. Unfortunately, surf was too rough for snorkeling, but we did get to see more of the sheer cliffs that join up with the Na Pali coast (we sailed almost as far as Kalalau beach, coming from the opposite direction than how we hiked).

The most amazing thing on the tour, by far, was all the marine wildlife we got to see. This included humpback whales:





and dolphins (both bottlenose and spinner):



The spinner dolphins were the more playful. A large pod of them swam alongside the boat for over half and hour, at times seeming to make a game of showing off how much more agile they are:



Another game they play involves jumping clear out of the water, doing multiple rolls in the air (hence the name spinner), and splashing back down. One of the dolphins wanted to show off extra hard for Monika and pulled this maneuver right below the spot she was looking over the railing. Good thing the nice sunny day made for easy clothes drying.

Monika started sucking in air as if she were suddenly gasping for breath. Once she was finally full to bursting, she managed to blurt out "TURTLE!"

This was back on our first night on Kauai, and we were taking a walk along the beach before setting up camp. The turtle popped its head up briefly above a breaking wave, then pushed itself back into the ocean and was gone. As we continued on our way, we kept glancing back at the spot in the vain hope that it might come back.

The next few days we were busy with the hike, which does not have any good spots for snorkeling or turtle-watching. When we made it back out from the trail, we stayed at a little condo/cottage on the southern edge of the island; there we had the following view from the balcony the next day.



In case you didn't catch that, here's a different view:



For those still having trouble, this one we spotted on the beach down the street.



Needless to say, the fleeting glimpse of the first turtle will not be our only memory of these guys. Wading out into the cove below our balcony as they swam about lazily and sunned themselves on rocks tops that one I think.

Also, more views from the cottage balcony:

So after 3 days of hiking and camping, you end up with two happy faces...



... and two pairs of dirty shoes.

A few more photos from the Kalalau Trail / Na Pali Coast:

Kalalau Beach, a full service camping site.



Amenities include: Fresh water (though treatment is do-it-yourself),



shower,



and exercise facilities...

"So, which rep and which floor of the Cathedral would you say we're at?" I asked Monika during an uphill portion of the hike; we were coming up on about mile 8 of the 11 mile Kalalau Trail.

"Ummmm... 6th rep, 31st floor," she replied.



"That's not too bad." We had been training for the hike by climbing the stairs at the Cathedral of Learning in Pittsburgh. 36 floors up from the basement. Then a quick elevator ride back down. The most we'd done was 8 of those with our packs on.

"Yeah, I feel totally fine with the uphills. It's the downhills that hurt." It wasn't like taking the elevator. And since the hike starts at sea level, goes up and down cliffs, and ends at sea level, there's as much down as up. By the end, our old knees had seen better days.



The knee-busting treks down weren't the only challenge that day. We had doubts whether the hike would happen at all, as it was raining consistenly through the morning. By the time it had stopped and we decided we would head out, it was already 9:00am. Then I spent the first few miles worrying we weren't making enough progress through the muddy terrain to finish the hike by daylight.












Difficulties aside, the cliffs (Na Pali in Hawaiian) were gorgeous, and each valley seemed to have its own unique microclimate and vegetation. And the reward at the end was Kalalau beach, a full 11 miles away from the nearest car.

Monika snuggled up to me lovingly in the middle of the night. She had to kind of slide over in her sleeping bag from her therma-rest to mine to do so.

"Chris..." I should have known she wanted something. "I need to pee." Monika has this rule: when we're camping and she needs to pee, I get to walk with her. I started rummaging through my clothes. "You putting on your pants?"

"Yeah I'm putting on my pants. It sounds like the end of world is going on out there. I'm not facing that in my tightie whities."

Waves were crashing. Wind was whipping. Water was lashing. As we stepped out into the night a light drizzle was coming down. The wind was pretty much just minding its own business. The ocean was safely breaking on the beach 30 feet away; right where we had left it before going to bed. But in the echo chamber that is our tent, the three had collaborated to engender thoughts that the sea could truly swallow one whole.